Years ago tourists came for the sun, sand and seafood when visiting Portugal.
They still do today, but since the U.S. presidential election Portugal has increasingly become a premier destination for those scouting for a new home. There are many reasons for this, including that Portugal first prohibited any form of discrimination based on sexual orientation in 2004 — which is enshrined in the country’s constitution.
Of course, traveling as a tourist is quite different compared to scouting for a possible residency. Incredible historic buildings, famed art and sugar sand beaches are all enticing attributes for a vacation, but not necessarily indicative of a potential welcoming and appropriate new home.
Lower travel costs may signal a less expensive place to live, but a vacation just isn’t enough to fully understand what it means to create a new life in a country not of your birth. So best to keep in mind when you visit, if a move might be on your mind, to go the extra mile to investigate beyond tourist concerns.
Although Portugal is far smaller than many European countries, there is still a great deal to see. While Lisbon rivals many other familiar urban destinations, the second largest city, Porto, in the North, is far quieter. It has a bit of an “old world charm” and is the home to Port wineries in the Douro Valley.
In the Southern Algarve region, you’ll find Faro, part of the Nature Park of Ria Formosa. Then there’s Albufeira, an incredible beach destination for dolphin watchers and surfers. And, of course, Coimbra — the former capital of Portugal and home to one of the oldest universities in the world. You could go for two or three weeks and still not see it all.
First and foremost, if you are going to consider a trip to Lisbon, be very aware this is one hilly city regardless of which of the five major neighborhoods you’re in. It easily rivals San Francisco, Edinburgh, and even Grindelwald, Switzerland. You will need good walking shoes, and while most places do offer accommodations, in general, wheelchair accessibility is limited.
Uber is a great way to get around the city if you prefer not waiting on local buses, trains and street cars, as it is almost always reliable, and relatively inexpensive. That said, if you’re a fan of public transportation, it’s quite dependable too, and certainly cheaper.
If culture, yesteryear and museums are your thing, you will be in heaven in Lisbon. The city has a long history with tile making (called azulejos), so even the sidewalks and the facades of many buildings show off incredible artwork. Don’t miss the Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro, likely one of the most photographed buildings in Lisbon, featuring tiled depictions of mythological images that represent earth, water and science.
Many tourists will spend hours online to enter some of the more famous spots in Lisbon. For example, we saw one such line at the Belem Tower, on a super foggy day, when all there is to see there are the views from the outside tower. Do your homework. Many of these spots are not necessarily worth the wait to get inside, and the outside of the buildings are just as, if not more so, amazing.
One incredible resource to help with secret must-see spots is Alex Pollard, founder of Alex’s Queer Lisbon Tours & Events. He is an unbelievable wealth of knowledge about the city in general, as well as the timeline of LGBTQ+ events throughout history there. Additionally, he’s published a free online book called “Alex’s LONG LIST – guide to LGBTQ Lisbon & Portugal,” and regardless of whether you’re going as a tourist or possible expat, this is a must read.
Eating is a joy in Lisbon. Whereas an average dinner in Paris might cost you $30-40, you can easily get a great full course meal for $15-20 in most sections of town. Traditional fresh fish is abundant, as is a wide variety of other choices, including Nepalese, Indian, Italian and more. Pastry shops are on every street corner, and don’t miss the famed Pastal de Nada, or custard tart, served in most places for a dollar or even less.
While there are literally hundreds of hotels in Lisbon, only one is consistently identified as “family owned,” called The Late Birds. They are, however, male only, so that won’t be an option for everyone. We stayed at a small lodge called Tings, located in the Gracia neighborhood, immediately next to one of the best lookout views, the Miradouro da Graça.
This was a perfect location as it was not at all noisy at night, but easily accessible to the downtown scene, and very close to good restaurants. The staff was also beyond helpful and accommodating, and the owners are ardent LGBTQ+ allies. If a scouting trip is your goal, Tings is especially a good place to stay as many of the employees, including the owners, are expats themselves, and will be happy to share their stories.
If you’re looking for the club scene, you won’t be disappointed. Lisbon, especially the Bairro Alto and Principe Real neighborhoods, is just brimming with fun! Check out Finalmente, a small but fab venue that has been around since a year or two after the 1974 revolution. There’s also Shelter Bar (for the Bear crowd), and Purex, which has great dancing and vintage decor. And make sure you don’t leave without getting to Trumps, which has no relation to the president and is one of the most famous LGBTQ+ venues in all of Portugal. It first opened in the 1980’s and is renowned for its drag shows.
So you’ve got considerable culture, fab food, plenty of partying and it’s all relatively affordable. Does that mean you want to live in Portugal? We were fortunate to connect with many expats, and for the most part, there are a lot of positive vibes from those who have chosen to make a new life there, even if it is not all perfect, and even if almost all noted life is very different than it is in America.
Pollard, 61, himself an expat from England, moved to Lisbon in 2019 after visiting on three different occasions.
“Despair with the UK’s turn to right-wing populism and the divisive politics of Brexit drove me to move for the kinder, more civilized environment of Portugal,” he says.
Overall, from healthcare to the general pace of life to meeting his partner Manuel, Pollard is thrilled with the move. But it’s not without challenges.
“I have struggled to pick up as much work as I had hoped for, and even with the lower cost of living here, money has been tight, and I have seen rents skyrocket as Lisbon’s success as a tourist destination has put pressure on the housing market,” he notes.
There are many other considerations as well, from tying up your entire life in America (like selling your home, downsizing your belongings, preparing pets for international travel and packing pallets) to filling out endless government required paperwork (on both sides of the Atlantic), VISA appointments, setting up Portuguese bank accounts, and learning Portuguese (which every ex pat we spoke to recommended).
The Portuguese might say “deixar em banho Maria,” a famous saying there, which translates to “leave it in a tub of water, Maria.” It’s their way of saying, put the problem aside until you have more information.
So if you’re ready to consider Portugal for either a vacation or a home, get out of the tub and plan a visit. Among other ideal times, Lisbon will be hosting EuroPride 2025 in June.
Learn more about Alex’s Queer Libson Tours and Events at @AlexLibsonTours on Instagram.
